No this isn't a post about his death or how amazing he was (you already knew this...I hope) this is about the new creative director of the McQueen label, Sarah Burton. When I first heard Lee had passed I, of course, was shocked and saddened, but more nervous. What would happen to Alexander McQueen and McQ!? The thought of never seeing one of Lee's breath taking shows in person was bad enough, but would the fashion house...close!? All my fears were set aside when Vogue reported that Sarah Burton, the head of womens wear, would be taking the helm of the McQueen label. Sarah had began working for McQueen while in her final year at CSM, and was appointed head of womens wear in 2000. Who better for role than Sarah?
After loving the pre Spring/Summer collection I waited with baited breath for the McQueen show, and after seeing the runway photo's I had a couple of points to make on the collection, first the show itself lacked the essence of a McQueen show, there wasn't a build up of drama, just a dreary barn like runway to match the floral prints. Second something Lee had mastered was print, he could make dresses completely covered in print and balance it with a remarkable silhouette, this collection however didn't do that. I felt that some of the looks were far too busy and heavy on the eye.
I felt like I was just nit picking because no matter how amazing the show could have been it wasn't from the mind of Lee. So, giving it another chance I watched the runway video on the McQueen Site, watching the fabrics dance so elegantly as the models walked up and down the runway had won me over. Of course, the prints do need some work. Now I would love to rave about how the future of McQueen has been saved by this amazing woman...but...big but...the kinda but your heart sinks at, you know the one...I got the McQueen email informing me that the RTW lookbook was up on the site, so like a giddy Japanese school girl I dropped everything I was doing to get a quick glance (and yes by quick glance I do mean spending an hour studying every look) My inner school girl quickly died, where were my dancing fabrics? The intricate details, the drama I had come to find in the collection. It was all gone, not just filtered down from show pieces to wearable for every day. GONE! While there are looks that still have that McQueen essence, it looked like an entirely different collection, the kind of collection done for H&M, spruced up with shoes and accessories stolen from the runway. Needless to say I won't be skipping down Old Bond street to see these clothes in person, I can only hope Sarah steps up for A/W.
